<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" ?>
<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="https://www.vetnurse.co.uk/utility/feedstylesheets/rss.xsl" media="screen"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"><channel><title>Problem Puppies</title><link>https://www.vetnurse.co.uk/f/nonclinical-discussions/8575/problem-puppies</link><description> Hey guys and girls. 
 
 I&amp;#39;ve started to take over the puppy parties at work. I&amp;#39;ve been doing
 it for about 2 months now - just on and off when the current person 
that runs them is away.. she&amp;#39;s handed her notice in, so I&amp;#39;ll probably 
have to continue</description><dc:language>en-US</dc:language><generator>Telligent Community 10</generator><item><title>Re: Problem Puppies</title><link>https://www.vetnurse.co.uk/thread/83364?ContentTypeID=1</link><pubDate>Wed, 26 May 2010 19:00:36 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">1a0763ec-3885-442c-853e-6cef656dfec5:1314d870-944f-4e0a-b00b-1a6ded464545</guid><dc:creator>Nicola Smith</dc:creator><description>&lt;p&gt;I had this with my own pup. We just encouraged him with a toy and lots of squeaky voices when he did walk, never pull on lead as they automatically start to pull against you. With mine it was just a stage he quickly grew out of and there is no stopping him now.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Problem Puppies</title><link>https://www.vetnurse.co.uk/thread/83361?ContentTypeID=1</link><pubDate>Wed, 26 May 2010 16:20:53 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">1a0763ec-3885-442c-853e-6cef656dfec5:1710bdc6-b948-45b6-b602-9e59900afb1c</guid><dc:creator>Jo Mackenzie</dc:creator><description>&lt;p&gt;I get this quite a lot at my puppy parties. Worth checking whether the pup is actually scared or just a bit overwhelmed i.e. never been outdoors then suddenly gets its second vacc and its exposed to the whole scary world. Carrying them around outdoors can help. I usually see it as quite a good sign if the pup doesn&amp;#39;t want to leave the house as it means it feels safe and secure in its new home!&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>Re: Problem Puppies</title><link>https://www.vetnurse.co.uk/thread/83154?ContentTypeID=1</link><pubDate>Mon, 24 May 2010 16:26:30 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">1a0763ec-3885-442c-853e-6cef656dfec5:a3a9d9ac-fa33-4f83-8075-ce020b4b0544</guid><dc:creator>funkyfish</dc:creator><description>&lt;p&gt;HI, I have come across this with pups at work and with my own! We run a puppy basic manors class for when they can 1st go out and about to stop these problems developing. I teach lead manors (follow me, not heel) don&amp;#39;t jump up on people, sit, leave, stair/door manors and recall.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Sometimes I find that its not that they are scared but get distracted, the lead goes tight, and they put the brakes on.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I usually check: is the lead loose (NEVER pull on lead!), is pup actually scared (shaking trying to hide etc), is pup tired, &amp;nbsp;just having a sit down.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;If lead is lose and pup has just put the breaks on and no amount of jollying on/luring will work than stand next to dog and step sideways, not to tread on it but pretend you are, push it (gently!!) over to the side until it stands up, then BIG REWARD then shuffle feet forward whilst making interesting noise (I do a high pitched &amp;#39;pup pup pup&amp;#39;) and get going again. It may take several goes of this before pup realises walking is more fun than sitting!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Also pups of just after 2nd vac stage should only be walking for socialisation/habitulisaion (Pants spelling!) so shouldn&amp;#39;t be walking much anyway, so it doesn&amp;#39;t matter that it takes 20min to walk 100yards the first few times. Make going out FUN!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Teaching pups to follow the Owner and that the O is more interesting than any sniffs etc by playing a follow me game is very helpful. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;O needs to reward every step pup choses to walk with O ( not to heel as such just interested in O and on a lose lead) with treat/tuggy toy etc. If pup gets distracted- stop be interesting (high pitched noises foot shuffling -I call it the puppy shuffle). After 5 min or so when it can do this then reward every 3rd step with high value treat/toy and in-between lots of encouraging works etc. Then every 5th, 10th till its every now and then for a high value reward and lots of encouragement in-between (intermittent reward schedule).&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;remember most pups can only see your legs from the knee below and will lock on to movement so even shuffling a few steps side to side should get their attention. High pitched interesting noises will get their attention too. Ignore the incorrect behaviour, encourage the wanted behaviour and reward, reward, reward the correct! Chang direction frequently and don&amp;#39;t do more than 10mins at a time as they get board. Pups attention at about 3 months is approx 2-6 sec!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Good luck and I hope it helps!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Email me if u want more tips!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;div style="clear:both;"&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item></channel></rss>