The Practice Survival Guide

Promoting Clinics

Arlo Guthrie — Wed, 07 Dec 2016 08:32:15 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Arlo Guthrie on 12/7/2016 8:32:15 AM

Anyone who has attended a George Cooper (veterinary marketing guru) seminar will be aware of the importance of giving your service a name. As George says, the word "clinic" does tend to create the impression of something fairly serious and not much fun.

It is our aim to provide a service that is not only useful and informative, but pleasurable. Clients are often stressed at the surgery since they associate their visits with the anxiety that accompanies having a poorly pet. We should endeavour to educate them into realising that a visit to the surgery can be a very positive experience and that we are there for every aspect of their pet's needs - not just the medical ones.

It is very difficult to strike a balance between a name that sounds drab and a name that is downright naff. The nearest we got was "The Pet Healthcare Adviser Service".

A new service is pretty pointless if your clients are unaware of its existence! Here are some ideas to help you to market the clinics:

Word of mouth - easy and free! You may be working on reception and notice a large, panting Labrador sprawled out over the floor. Use this opportunity to offer to weigh the dog. Having a chart available showing ideal breed weights is a good back up. Explain the problems associated with obesity, but do try to be tactful! Once you have the client's trust, it is then time to impart information regarding the nursing clinics and how the weight reduction programme can help. The veterinary surgeons can also help to promote the service during their consultations.
Business cards - to create a professional image. These need not be formal. The idea is to create the impression that by attending the nursing clinics, the client is experiencing a privilege. Our nursing appointments are always free, but the clients don't know this! By handing over a card stating "Nursing Clinics - Free Attendance for 1 Year!" the clients really do feel that they are getting something special. This is something for the client to keep in their purse or wallet with the name and contact number of an experienced nurse who they know they can call for advice when needed.
Posters - a smart and striking design displayed in the consulting rooms, waiting and reception areas can be effective. Always laminate these to avoid them becoming torn and dog-eared (laminating sheets are available from any large stationary company - you don't need to buy an expensive machine). Posters can also be displayed in local pet shops and rescue centres.
Flyers - professionally printed designs work best. Send these out with vaccination reminders and invoices to newly registered clients. You can include them in welcome packs, puppy and kitten packs and post-operative advice packs. Make sure they are also available in a leaflet rack in the waiting room and consulting rooms.
Website - if your practice has a website, make sure there are pages devoted to the nursing clinics. We operate our nurse's pages in the format of a question and answer forum covering a variety of subjects.
Other promotion - please refer to the chapter "Marketing".

Practice Makeover - Before

Arlo Guthrie — Sun, 30 Nov 2014 20:11:01 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Arlo Guthrie on 11/30/2014 8:11:01 PM

In 2002, Novartis Animal Health held the Practice Waiting Room Makeover competition. The objective was to show how the science of point of sales marketing could be used to maximise opportunities in the waiting room. Novartis hoped that the lessons learned during the makeover would benefit the whole profession.

The winner was Woodlands Veterinary Practice in Cheltenham. Theirs was a fairly typical set-up, with a haphazard approach to product display, a slightly tired look, and the inevitable food display.

Entrance to the practice was via the door to the right of the reception desk in the 'Looking Right' picture above. The two brown doors in the same picture lead to the consulting rooms. At the end of the room in the 'Looking Left' picture, you can see the entrance to the lab, and an unused (locked), second door to the street on the left.

The following main problems were identified:

Haphazard product display: products displayed on free-standing shelf units, none of them priced. None of the products were highlighted in any way. A few bottles of this here, and a few tubes of that there.
The area by reception frequently became congested, as people exited the consulting rooms and walked straight into the arms of clients settling the bill.
Although the waiting room was tidy and clean, it felt quite cold and uninviting. Not helped by old fluorescent lighting, tired ceiling panels, and a drab carpet.
White walls gave the practice a cold, uninviting atmosphere.
Information about veterinary services was restricted to one noticeboard, next to the food stand.

£15,000 was spent on transforming the practice, and whilst it may well be that you don't have that sort of budget at your fingertips, many of the lessons learned during the Practice Makeover Competition can be carried out on a much lower budget. Just 'moving things around' can make a huge difference.

Practice Makeover - After

Arlo Guthrie — Sun, 30 Nov 2014 20:10:37 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Arlo Guthrie on 11/30/2014 8:10:37 PM

And here is the same practice, post makeover. What a difference! Note that these photographs were taken soon after the main work had been completed, and there were still some final flourishes to be added.

The main areas Novartis addressed were:

New colour scheme to give a warmer feel, whilst remaining fresh, clean and professional.
Carpeting used in the lower footfall areas, with durable, tiled, non-slip flooring in high traffic areas.
Ceiling tiles removed and ceiling skim plastered. Halogen lighting installed throughout.
Reception zone moved to the opposite end of the practice, to remove conflict with patients exiting from consulting rooms.
Reception zone included glass-fronted and locked cabinets behind the desk, in which to display and store POM products.
Retail zone created, and situated where all clients would come into contact with it.
Retail zone included a tailor-made display area, with downlit cubby holes in which to display items that would highlight certain products and services at the practice. These included an integral shelf to store leaflets with further information.
In the waiting zone, space constraints limited the type of seating it was possible to use. However, new, more heavily upholstered wooden chairs (some with armrests), replaced the old ones.
In the waiting zone, space constraints also meant that there was little opportunity in this case to provide tables with reading material at this practice.
A children's zone was created in the space freed up by moving the reception desk.

Plump Pets Club - Handout

Arlo Guthrie — Sun, 30 Nov 2014 20:08:41 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Arlo Guthrie on 11/30/2014 8:08:41 PM

THE PLUMP PETS CLUB – HELPFUL HINTS TO HELP YOUR PET LOSE WEIGHT

Now that you have decided to help your pet to lose weight here are some useful tips to guide you. Whenever you are tempted to give in or cheat try to remember the risks associated with obesity. You may feel mean at first - but give your pet an alternative to a food reward. A game with your dog or cat is far healthier, and as your pet's fitness level improves, games will become even more fun!

1. Change your pet’s diet to our recommended restricted calorie food. Your pet will feel hungry if you just suddenly reduce his diet. A hungry pet will be unhappy, and start begging and bin raiding, so any change in diet must be introduced gradually. Prescription calorie control diets contain more water and roughage than regular pet foods, and this will help your cat or dog to feel full and content. Advice will be given by your Pet Healthcare Adviser.

2. You don’t have to cut out titbits – just remember that the more titbits you give, the less food you should give your pet at meal-times. Giving a treat is rewarding for both animal and owner, and providing the treats are healthy ones (such as a Pedigree rice bone for dogs, or a small piece of reduced fat ham for cats) they can still be a part of your pet’s daily routine. Carrots and apples may also be offered to dogs, but you must be honest with your Pet Healthcare Adviser as to exactly how many treats you like to give – otherwise the diet plan will be unsuccessful. Remember that if your dog eats one chocolate digestive biscuit, it's equivalent to you eating the whole packet!

3. Adapt your pet’s routine long-term. If you have ever been on a crash diet yourself, you will know that as soon as you start eating normally, the weight creeps back on. The key is to make life-style changes and aim for gradual weight loss rather than expect a dramatic improvement in a short space of time. In the wild, it is natural for cats and dogs to hunt at dawn and dusk, and to work for their meals. We can aim to recreate this scenario by feeding two smaller meals (even three if need be) and hide the food around the house and garden in unusual places. Placing the food at the top of a staircase is a great way to get a lazy animal moving!

4. Always weigh the amount of food that you have been instructed to give. Use the special measuring cup provided and don’t leave it to guesswork. Buying a smaller sized feeding bowl may fool your pet into thinking the portion is bigger (it has a psychological benefit to humans, so give it a go!). Feed your weight-watching pet away from other pets, and out of temptation’s way when you are preparing food or eating yourself.

5. Exercise is an important part of any weight loss programme. Our Pet Healthcare Advisor will have discussed an exercise regime with you. Remember to gradually increase the amount of exercise for your dog or cat. Frequent, short walks or game playing sessions are far more beneficial than a single hike or mad dash around the garden.

6. Suggested exercise for dogs:

Tug of war – with a Ragger (a rope with knots at both ends available to purchase from the surgery).
Swimming – fantastic if you live near a beach, but physiotherapy pools, especially for dogs, are becoming more popular.
Fetch the Kong – these are honeycomb-shaped, indestructible toys made by the Company of Animals that provide hours of fun due to their unpredictable, bouncy nature. Floating Kongs are available for games in water, and you can even hide food in them (see 3).
3-4 brisk 20 minute walks per day (but build this up gradually if your dog has previously been a couch potato!).
Feed your dog at the top of the stairs (see 3 – and make sure he or she is downstairs first!).
Attend a training class – great revision for your dog and a chance for both you and your pet to meet new friends.

7. Suggested exercise for cats:

Chasing games, with feathers and dried fish attached to a piece of wool or string.
Cat nip extravaganza – this really gets most cats in the mood for a bit of rolling, purring and pussy ecstasy. Catnip spray is available and can be squirted on a scratching post to encourage use.
Kitty Kong games – the Kitty Kong is a mad, purple, mouse-shaped object that bounces unpredictably and has the bonus of being hollow. You can either stuff it with the catnip impregnated sheets provided, or fill it with part of your cat’s daily food allowance (see 3).
Feed your cat at the top of the stairs (see 3 – and make sure he or she is downstairs first!).
Assault courses! Cats that are allowed outdoors, and that are hungry enough can be encouraged to get up to all sorts of unusual activities. Why not devise a small series of objects that your cat is encouraged to jump onto or inside (e.g. tree stumps, cardboard boxes, Ikea paper bags etc.) all for a tiny food reward. Don’t go overboard with the rewards as heavy exercise + food = poorly tummies and less of a main meal later!).

The Practice Survival Guide

Arlo Guthrie — Sat, 22 Nov 2014 11:10:57 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Arlo Guthrie on 11/22/2014 11:10:57 AM

Welcome to the Practice Survival Guide by Vanessa Bird VN. This offers guidance for the non-clinical aspects of working in practice. Some chapters, such as 'Office Equipment' are aimed at those who are new to life in practice. We hope that some of the tips and advice in later chapters, such as Marketing, will come in handy for the seasoned professional.

The Practice Survival Guide

Anonymous — Thu, 13 Nov 2014 20:39:44 GMT

Revision 1 posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Anonymous on 11/13/2014 8:39:44 PM

Plump Pets Club

Diane Wood — Thu, 21 Aug 2014 00:11:40 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Diane Wood on 8/21/2014 12:11:40 AM

Fortunately, cats and dogs are far too sensible to ruin their health with booze and fags - but allowing your pet to become obese is as bad.

The "Plump Pets Pack" is designed to be handed out at the first consultation of a weight reduction programme. Mark your packs clearly "cat" or "dog" since the diet food samples and exercising instructions will differ. You might include any of the following in your packs:

There is an abundance of pre-printed literature available from both Hills & Waltham relevant to their respective weight control products. If your practice favours only one diet manufacturer, use only the leaflets relating to this product. If a choice is offered, it is far better to allow the pet to decide upon the brand (after all, they're the one's who are going to have to eat it!) and include feeding guides for both.
Measuring cups for the diets will not fit into the wallets, but make sure they are to hand ready to give to the client during the consultation.
Free samples of the dry diet foods . These are not available in a pre-packed form, but it is easy to make your own with small grip-seal bags and customised stickers made on Microsoft Word.
Free sample of a healthy, low fat treat for dogs such as Pedigree Light & Tasty rice bones. Samples again are not available pre-packed, but try making your own. If Waltham know that you are actively promoting their products, they are usually willing to help out with some freebies (chat up the rep!). Diet cat treats are few and far between, so why not offer a small pack of cat nip or a ping bong ball? (cheap and cheerful, but always appreciated).
A graph (available from either Hills or Waltham). There is nothing that a client likes more than being able to see their pet's progress from week to week (but do warn them that pets invariably reach a plateau at some stage on their diet just like their human counterparts).
Discount vouchers for the diet food (again, available periodically from Hills & Waltham - ask your rep).
A certificate of achievement (this looks great with "before & after" photos attached so get your practice to invest in a Polaroid, or better still, digital camera. Content of this nature is ideal for your website).
A personalised diet plan for the individual animal - include an introduction, helpful hints, information about the diet foods and other relevant merchandise (plus photos of the products and costs).

The Party Host

jennifer1 — Tue, 28 Jul 2009 14:07:31 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by jennifer1 on 7/28/2009 2:07:31 PM

The perfect host for a puppy party will be an enthusiastic dog lover, preferably with first-hand experience of puppy rearing. Owners will respond better to a member of staff who can relate to their own experiences.

This is of prime importance when discussing issues such as toilet-training. To be able to say: "My own pup was still having the odd accident right up to the age of 9 months", will reassure the owner that he or she is not alone and that even the "experts" can still have a few setbacks.

The party host need not be a veterinary surgeon or qualified nurse, providing they are knowledgeable about:

The benefits of vaccination
Canine nutrition
Microchipping
Pet insurance
Neutering - how, why and when
Parasite control
Basic training and elementary behavioural advice
Grooming & claw clipping
Home dental care
Common health problems - prevention and treatment

A polite, approachable manner and the confidence to speak clearly in front of a group are essential. Above all, you must enjoy the proceedings and be able to make the experience a positive, enjoyable and memorable one for all.

It is very sensible to have an assistant on hand. The assistant can be in charge of a well-mannered practice dog (for demonstrating how to administer a tablet) and handing round refreshments. As an added bonus, the assistant will get to know the routine, and be able to cover if the party host is off sick or on holiday.

Practice Websites

Arlo Guthrie — Thu, 15 Jan 2009 18:18:30 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Arlo Guthrie on 1/15/2009 6:18:30 PM

The Internet is still very much in its infancy as a method of communication with clients, but there is little doubt that usage of the internet by consumers is set to explode in the coming years. Why? Well, until recently, the only option for most people was a standard telephone connection. With these, it takes ages to log on and for pages to download, and as often as not the line drops before they have. Furthermore, the method of accessing the Internet has been through a computer, usually relegated to the spare bedroom or office.

All that is changing fast. 'Always on' broadband connections are changing the way that people use the Internet. Perhaps more importantly, we are now beginning to see the first pieces of hardware that bring the Internet into people's living rooms - so called 'media centres' that download music and pipe it straight to your hifi, and send films, webpages and e-mail straight to your TV.

This all means that the Internet will increasingly become THE source of information that consumers use to find out about local services, including their vets. And although it will be some time before the Internet is in every sitting room, there are already enough users, and it has become so cheap and easy to set up a practice website, that there is almost no reason not to have one.

Benefits
The main benefits of a practice website are:

Interactivity
The internet allows you to interact with your clients in a way that an advert, a letter or a brochure never can.
Cost effectiveness
Although websites can cost many thousands of pounds, a basic site can now be put online for a year for about £100. It is then available for anyone with a computer to see, whenever they want.
Flexibility
Websites offer the ultimate in flexibility as regards the information you display. Special offers and promotions can be uploaded at the touch of a button, and at no extra cost.
Measurability
You'll be able to measure how many people have visited your site, and which sections they have spent most time in. So you can see what is working and what isn't.

Who should have a website?
Usage of the Internet can vary widely from area to area. People that live and work in urban areas are more likely to have high speed Internet connection, and are therefore more likely to use the Internet regularly, than people living in rural reas. For this reason, it's probable that practices with clients that live in an urban area, or clients that come from all over the country (they are a 'must have' for specialists), will stand to benefit most from a website. Having said that, it is now so cheap to have a basic presence on the Internet, that really every practice should have one.

Building a website.
There are three main ways to build and deploy a practice website:

Commission a website company to do the job for you. Prices can vary enormously, so make sure you get a number of quotes.
Do it yourself. The end result probably won't be as polished as one built by a professional programmer, but provided you follow our basic design guidelines, you should be able to give yourself a tidy presence on the Internet after four or five evenings spent reading up on website design software. And as you learn more, you can improve and enhance your website. Macromedia's Dreamweaver is the best tool for the job.

Design guidelines
The finer points of design are beyond the scope of this training module. However, there are some golden rules that need to be observed when building a practice website, whether you do it yourself, or get an agency to do it for you:

Whatever else you do, make sure that the following key pieces of information are displayed immediately, and obviously, when a visitor arrives at your web page:

Who you are
Where you are
When you are open
How to contact you

It's amazing how many websites 'bury' this vital information. Fact is, if you did nothing but display your address, opening times and contact details on an otherwise white webpage, it would still be more effective that the most highly-designed site where this information is not immediately available.
Don't over-design; keep it clear and simple. Don't clutter with endless animated images of wagging dogs and the like. They will usually only distract readers from your point.
Avoid the temptation to over-inform. All information should stimulate interest in visiting the practice. In other words, don't offer so much petcare advice online that clients feel they have no need to visit the practice! Never publish information just 'because you have it'. Always think how it can be leveraged to encourage a visit to the practice.
Be succinct. A computer screen is not the ideal format for reading.

Get yourself seen
Many people don't realise that building a website and sticking it online is only half the job. Unless the most popular search engines have registered your presence, the chances of a potential client finding your website are probably in excess of about a billion to one. There are four steps for getting yourself seen on the Internet:

The first step is to make sure your site is Internet search engine friendly, that's to say that it contains text and code that will help search engines index it correctly. If you are having your website built by website company, make sure that they cover this aspect (many don't). If you are doing it yourself, further information on this subject is available at: http://www.bravenet.com/
Next, you need to submit your website to the major search engines to make sure that they know you exist. In this regard, pay no attention to spam email which invites you to use a service that will submit your website to search engines on your behalf. Not worth it. You can do it yourself very easily, at no cost, and probably have equally good results. Just visit each major search engine and submit your site to the ones that allow you to do so for free. Google and DMOZ should be the priorities. Make sure you are listed onhttp://www.any-uk-vet.co.uk. They always seem to be high on the Google rankings.
You should also identify which existing websites might be prepared to link to you, and ask them to do so. For instance, the website for a local pet store, newspaper or local listing page. This should drive traffic directly to your site, and it may also push you further up the search engine rankings (some search engines will judge how important a website is by the number of other websites that link to it).
Finally, promote your website address offline. Put it on your letterhead, business cards, brochures and all other marketing materials.

Measure
Nearly all site hosts offer statistical analysis packages which will show you how many visitors you've had, when they came, where they came from, which pages they looked at, and whether they brushed their teeth that morning. OK, perhaps not the latter. Point is that websites are a very measurable form of marketing. You can see which pages people find most interesting, and which sites or search engines are giving you the most referrals. You can then tweak your site accordingly. It can be very rewarding, watching how your audience grows.

E-mail addresses
For the majority of practices that will have a long term relationship with their clients (years), 'e-mail harvesting' is a must. It's a great way of communicating at a cost of 5/10ths of nothing, and it's a real investment in the future. However, management of e-mail addresses really requires a database-driven website, which will almost certainly require building by a professional programmer. For the moment, there is still the problem that many clients only check e-mail sporadically (it comes in on that steam-driven computer in the study upstairs). Successful e-mail management is therefore something we'll cover in further depth in the future.

Final Suggestions

Arlo Guthrie — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 11:28:09 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Arlo Guthrie on 1/8/2009 11:28:09 AM

It may be a nice idea to have a special book of remembrance at the practice. It's an opportunity for your clients to add special photographs, words and poetry. It also helps them remember their pet as he or she was when happy and healthy.

Many practices send a condolence card to bereaved pet owners. This should be hand-written by the veterinary surgeon who provided the treatment or carried out euthanasia, or by one of the nurses who helped to care for the animal. These cards are usually very much appreciated.

Missing Pets And Rehoming

Arlo Guthrie — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 11:26:26 GMT

Revision 1 posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Arlo Guthrie on 1/8/2009 11:26:26 AM

There are a number of options available to the client. Make sure that you are familiar with those offered by your practice. As a general guide, the following are the usual methods of burial and cremation:

Home burial.
Many people with a garden chose to bury their pets at home. The size and depth of the grave must be sufficient to accommodate the animal without risk of disturbance from wild animals or future owners of the property. The pet should not be wrapped in plastic as this will affect normal decomposition. There are a number of companies specialising in memorials for pets, or a shrub or tree could be planted.
Routine cremation.
This is an economical and sensible option. The practice will have a contract with a pet crematorium who will collect the bodies from the surgery and carry out cremation. Routine cremation involves the cremation of several pets at once. The ashes are usually scattered in the grounds. A reputable company will encourage inspection by clients and allow them to visit the garden of remembrance.
Individual/private cremation.
Pets are individually cremated by the pet crematorium and the ashes returned to the surgery for the client to collect. Many clients find returning to the surgery very traumatic, and may appreciate it if you offer to deliver the ashes (if staffing levels permit). Most crematoria offer a choice of container. A biodegradable box is the cheaper option - the ashes can then be kept, buried or scattered. A polished, wooden casket may be preferred and usually this will come with an engraved name plate.
Burial at a pet cemetery.
This can be organised either by the practice or by the client who may prefer to make their own arrangements.

Burial Or Cremation

Arlo Guthrie — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 11:25:33 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Arlo Guthrie on 1/8/2009 11:25:33 AM

Home burial.
Many people with a garden chose to bury their pets at home. The size and depth of the grave must be sufficient to accommodate the animal without risk of disturbance from wild animals or future owners of the property. The pet should not be wrapped in plastic as this will affect normal decomposition. There are a number of companies specialising in memorials for pets, or a shrub or tree could be planted.
Routine cremation.
This is an economical and sensible option. The practice will have a contract with a pet crematorium who will collect the bodies from the surgery and carry out cremation. Routine cremation involves the cremation of several pets at once. The ashes are usually scattered in the grounds. A reputable company will encourage inspection by clients and allow them to visit the garden of remembrance.
Individual/private cremation.
Pets are individually cremated by the pet crematorium and the ashes returned to the surgery for the client to collect. Many clients find returning to the surgery very traumatic, and may appreciate it if you offer to deliver the ashes (if staffing levels permit). Most crematoria offer a choice of container. A biodegradable box is the cheaper option - the ashes can then be kept, buried or scattered. A polished, wooden casket may be preferred and usually this will come with an engraved name plate.
Burial at a pet cemetery.
This can be organised either by the practice or by the client who may prefer to make their own arrangements.

Don't Make It Worse

Arlo Guthrie — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 11:24:38 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Arlo Guthrie on 1/8/2009 11:24:38 AM

There is no preventing the dreadful loss and grief that a client will suffer if their cherished pet has to be put to sleep. But the following will at least help to ensure that you do not add to their pain.

Maintain a professional, compassionate and sympathetic attitude at all times and make sure that other staff do the same. Bereaved clients will not appreciate people larking about behind the reception desk.
Be flexible with regard to payment. This is the one occasion when it simply isn't fair to expect a client to settle their account immediately. However, do bear in mind that some people may prefer to settle in advance or at the time, since receiving an invoice or having to return to the surgery may be distressing.
Make sure that any items left with the pet are clearly labelled and put in a safe place. The client may want these returned at a later date.
Try to book euthanasia at a quiet time of day so that clients do not have to wait to be seen by the veterinary surgeon. If necessary, allow them to jump the queue.
Many clients would prefer not to have their distress evident for the rest of the waiting room. If you can, offer an alternative route out of the surgery.

Equipment

Arlo Guthrie — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 11:22:54 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Arlo Guthrie on 1/8/2009 11:22:54 AM

When assisting with euthanasia it is important to be familiar with the necessary equipment. Both the veterinary surgeon and the client will appreciate prompt preparation.

Consent form
Curved scissors or surgical clippers
Methylated spirit and a cotton wool pad
Suitably-sized syringe containing Lethobarb/Euthatal
Suitably-sized needles/intravenous catheters & bung (depending on vet's preference)
2.5cm Elastoplast
Vetbed for the pet to sit or lie on

The following should also be close to hand, but kept out of sight of the client:

Muzzles/tranquillizing drugs in case the animal is aggressive
Labels for collars/leads/baskets
Label to identify the pet's body
Large plastic sack & cable tie (make sure that the sack is the correct colour for the type of disposal chosen by the client)
Permanent marker to label the sack

How Euthanasia Is Performed

Arlo Guthrie — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 11:22:12 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Arlo Guthrie on 1/8/2009 11:22:12 AM

Euthanasia is performed using a very large dose of an anaesthetic drug, causing unconsciousness within a few seconds, followed by death. The route chosen depends upon the species and medical condition of the pet, but in every case the procedure is quick and painless. The drug may be administered by any of the following routes:

Injection into a vein in the forelimb (cephalic vein).
Injection into a vein in the hindlimb (saphenous vein).
Injection into an indwelling intravenous catheter (if the animal is on a drip for example).
Injection into the liver, kidney or heart (this may be necessary if the animal has very poor circulation).
Injection into a vein in the ear (usually the case with rabbits).
Inhalation of a volatile agent (usually the case with small rodents such as hamsters, rats and gerbils since a vein is very difficult to visualise).

Every animal is assessed individually, and the method chosen will be that which causes the least stress. If a pet is particularly nervous, then a tranquillizing drug may be given prior to the procedure.

Consciousness is lost within a few seconds, but it is important to advise the client that there may be some reflex actions evident. These include gasping, sighing, urination or defecation, and the client must be assured that although these signs may be distressing, the pet is unaware of any pain or discomfort.

Preparing

Arlo Guthrie — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 11:21:27 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Arlo Guthrie on 1/8/2009 11:21:27 AM

There will usually be a short period between when the client knows that euthanasia needs to be carried out, and when it actually happens. During this time, it is essential that you are able to give clear information, sensitively.

You may need to:

Arrange assessment of the animal's condition by a veterinary surgeon if the pet has not been examined recently.
Explain how euthanasia is performed.
Explain that a consent form giving permission to euthanase the animal will need to be signed by an adult.
Ask if the client has a preferred member of staff that he or she would like to perform/assist with euthanasia.
Find out whether the client would like to be present during euthanasia , or,
Offer the opportunity to visit a hospitalised patient to say goodbye.
Establish whether the client would prefer to have euthanasia performed at the surgery or at home, and organise a mutually convenient time and date.
Establish what the client would like done with the body following the procedure (also find out if baskets/collars/leads etc are to be returned).

Talking It Through

Arlo Guthrie — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 11:20:28 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Arlo Guthrie on 1/8/2009 11:20:28 AM

The literal translation of euthanasia, from the Latin, is 'good death'. That, of course, is a bit of a contradiction in terms, and the decision to euthanase an animal is never an easy one for a client.

Discussing the right time
Obviously, it is the veterinary surgeon's role to explain and discuss euthanasia with the client. In reality, though, you may find that some clients find it difficult to raise the subject with the vet, or want to talk about it with someone else before they make the final decision.

The decision to put a pet to sleep can only ever be made its owner. But you can be an enormous support by helping them 'work through' the decision, perhaps thereby giving them the courage to raise the subject with the vet, perhaps just helping them understand that they are 'doing the right thing' after they've discussed it with the vet.

However, you should never discuss the euthanasia of a specific animal without knowing the client well, and being certain that the vet feels that this is an appropriate option. There would be nothing worse than giving the client conflicting signals at this very dificult time.

If it is appropriate, you can help the client just by getting them to ask themself:

Does the animal appear to be in pain? (signs to look out for include vocalising, depression, reluctance to move, loss of appetite and a generally dull demeanour).
How is the pet's appetite? (any pet that is disinterested in food or drink, or has no appetite has a reduced quality of life).
What is the pet's general demeanour like? (behavioural changes can indicate serious illness - look for aggression, lethargy, exercise intolerance and lack of response to stimuli).
Is the animal able to maintain a good standard of cleanliness? (pets, like us, prefer to be clean. Matted coats and/or soiling of the coat or bedding indicate a serious deterioration in quality of life).

In many cases, you will be talking through things that they will already have discussed with the vet. But it can be an enormous help to the client to go through the decision making process more than once, or with more than one person.

Afterwards
Some clients will find it comforting to talk about the experience, especially with a member of staff with whom they feel at ease (perhaps someone who helped to care for the pet during recent illness). If you have lost a pet yourself, you will know from first hand experience how hard it is to deal with the huge gap that losing a much loved animal leaves.

Do try not to give clients a rehearsed spiel about pet loss. Speak from the heart, and appreciate that everyone deals with such matters in different ways. Some people prefer to be alone to deal with their grief and will appreciate being allowed to do so.

Backup literature is very useful, since a client may not take in everything you say if he or she is very distressed.

The following may prove helpful:

Leaflets providing information about the crematorium chosen by the practice
Leaflets giving answers to common questions asked by clients about euthanasia
"Absent Friend" books available to purchase or borrow

Coping With Loss Yourself

Arlo Guthrie — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 11:19:20 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Arlo Guthrie on 1/8/2009 11:19:20 AM

How often do you hear people say: "Oh, I love animals. I couldn't do your job. How do you cope having to see pets die?"

I've been working in practice for over 13 years, and it still hurts when I assist with euthanasia or am witness to a death at the surgery. My boss has always said that to feel emotional is normal, and if the day comes that you become hardened and stop caring, you should probably not be working in a veterinary practice. The following tips may help:

Remember that euthanasia is only ever performed on humane or legal grounds and is never carried out unnecessarily.
Appreciate that it is normal to be upset (but do be brave in front of the clients - they need you to be strong).
Talk to other colleagues if you are feeling depressed. We all have to go through the same trauma. To know that you are not suffering alone can give you strength.
Some circumstances may prove to be especially traumatic: maybe you've lost one of your own pets recently or have formed a special bond with a patient that you have been caring for. If you do not feel up to assisting do not feel that it is weak to ask a colleague to help instead.

Moving Home

Arlo Guthrie — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 11:18:24 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Arlo Guthrie on 1/8/2009 11:18:24 AM

Moving house can be a traumatic time for even the most stoical cat or dog. If possible, cats should be boarded and only collected once the furniture is in. Ideally, dogs should be boarded or stay with a friend.

A few handy tips for clients when they arrive at their new home:

Ideally, find a safe, quiet place for the pet whilst you unpack.
Make sure that the pet's bedding, food and water are available on arrival.
If a pet will be loose in the new house, be careful with gates, doors and windows whilst unpacking.
Check gates and fences are secure before letting a dog loose in a new garden.
Cats should be kept in for at least 10 days after moving into a new home (often up to 21 if nervous), so a litter tray will be necessary.
When letting a cat outside for the first time, do it before a mealtime - a hungry cat is likely to return for its supper and is less likely to disappear.

Exporting Pets

Arlo Guthrie — Thu, 08 Jan 2009 11:17:31 GMT

Current Revision posted to The Practice Survival Guide by Arlo Guthrie on 1/8/2009 11:17:31 AM

Any client who wants to export an animal should contact DEFRA as soon as possible.

DEFRA will advise what the requirements are for entry to the destination country, and send the necessary paperwork to the practice.

Only government-authorised Local Veterinary Inspectors (LVIs) can complete the necessary paperwork.

Vaccination and parasite control are essential and the implantation of a microchip is sensible.

In all cases, a health certificate will need to be issued a certain amount of time before the departure date. This declares that the animal is fit to travel.